These three actions together result in a general regenerating effect for skin. However, detailed research into the composition required the best effect or which compounds are the most important has generally been neglected. As a result, there has traditionally been a lack of guidance for the formulation of end products.

Recent Research

Recent studies have attempted to remedy this and have clearly shown seabuckthorn oil to be effective in protecting skin. In vivio models showed that the oil protects cell membranes from oxidative stress (preventive tests) and helps in repairing damages (curative tests).

These effects were clearly connected to four different groups of compounds, all present in seabuckthorn oil in very high quantities...

Omega-7 Fatty Acid (Palmitoleic acid) Stablising cell membranes Tocopherols Protecting against excessive oxidation Carotenoids Protecting from radicals and active oxygen species Phytosterols Stabilising cell membranes

This work also stresses the difference between the two different seabuckthorn oils; seed oil and berry oil. Each has a completely different composition and effects and it is essential to know and understand the difference.

Improved production and quality

The chemical quality of the oil is also a major factor in effectiveness. Use of seabuckthorn has been restricted by both the quality and quantity of supplies. Oils have had high POV and acid values, limiting their suitability for high-quality consumer goods. Microbial contamination has also been a limiting factor although this is to some extent a natural occurence considering that all natural raw materials contain microbes or their spores.

Year, harvesting time and production methods also greatly affect the composition of the oil. Combined with poor knowledge of the oil's composition and limited availability, this has greatly hindered widespread use.

Novel production methods now allow reliable manufacturing of 100% pure seabuckthorn oils. Raw material is produced and handled according to strictly defined criteria, resulting in optimised concentrations of the active compounds. Super-critical CO2 Extraction minimises oxidative and thermal stress, yielding an oil high in tocopherols and carotenoids as well as being the only way to produce a solvent-free oil at a reasonable price. This controlled production chain yields predictable, superior quality pure oils suitable for both food and cosmetic formulations.

Rare omega-7 fatty acid helps troubled skin

Seabuckthorn berry oil is especially rich in omega-7 series fatty acid (palmitoleic acid). Making up around 30% of the total oil, this rare fatty acid is a key component in seabuckthorn berry oil's effectiveness as it can act as a replacement for other fatty acids in cell membranes. Usually, polyunsaturated fatty acids are chosen for this property but in certain situations, such as increased stress, dietary deficiency or metabolic disorders, these are not readily available.

Palmitoleic acid can act as a substitute. It is monounsaturated (as, for example, oleic acid) but its physical parameters are closed to PUFAs, rendering it more suitable as a substitute. When administered together with antioxidants and sterols, it effectively helps cells to proliferate and recover from damage.